In 1946, British composer Sir William Walton left England in search of a peaceful retreat where he could work undisturbed. His music, known for its emotional strength and bold orchestration, had already earned him national recognition. He had composed Belshazzar’s Feast (1931) and Viola Concerto (1929), and was knighted in 1951 for his contributions to British music. After World War II, Walton sought a refuge away from the political and artistic noise of postwar Britain.
Walton and his Argentine wife, Susana Gil Passo, discovered Ischia, a volcanic island in the Gulf of Naples, during a visit in 1949. Captivated by its rugged coastline, thermal springs, and Mediterranean climate, they decided to settle there permanently. They purchased a barren plot of land in a steep ravine in Forio, on the island’s western coast. What seemed like an inhospitable stretch of volcanic rock would become one of the most extraordinary private gardens in Europe.
The Transformation of a Rocky Ravine
When the Waltons acquired the land in 1956, it was little more than a stony gully with poor soil and minimal vegetation. The site was dry, sunbaked, and hostile to most plant life. Yet Susana Walton had a vision of creating a lush, exotic garden filled with rare and tropical plants. Determined and resourceful, she began importing soil, building terraces, and creating microclimates through shade and irrigation.
A key turning point came when Susana enlisted the expertise of Russell Page, a distinguished British landscape designer. Page, known for his elegant and classical approach to garden architecture, visited Ischia in the early 1960s. He drew up a masterplan for the property, recognizing the natural amphitheater of the ravine and using its elevation changes to his advantage. Page’s involvement helped lay the structural foundation for what would become a two-level garden experience, separated by elevation and climate.
From Private Garden to Public Treasure
For decades, La Mortella remained a private sanctuary, known only to friends of the Waltons and a handful of garden enthusiasts. But Susana, ever aware of its cultural and educational potential, began planning for its future. In 1991, eight years after Sir William Walton’s death, she opened the gardens to the public. The move was not only a tribute to her husband’s legacy but also a gift to the island of Ischia.
In 1983, Lady Walton established the Fondazione William Walton e La Mortella, a foundation dedicated to the preservation of the garden and the promotion of young musicians. The foundation now manages the site, ensuring that both the botanical and musical legacies of the Waltons endure. Since its public opening, La Mortella has attracted thousands of visitors annually, drawn by its plant collections, concerts, and peaceful setting.
Milestones in La Mortella’s Development:
- 1949: Waltons visit Ischia
- 1956: Land purchased in Forio
- 1962: Russell Page visits and designs layout
- 1983: William Walton passes away
- 1991: Garden opens to the public
- 2002: Greek Theatre inaugurated for concerts
- 2010: Lady Walton passes away, aged 83
Botanical Riches and Garden Design
Exotic and Mediterranean Flora
La Mortella is home to over 800 species of plants, drawn from both tropical and Mediterranean climates. Due to the clever use of elevation and irrigation, the garden includes a lower section resembling a tropical rainforest and an upper section more reflective of arid Mediterranean hillsides. The diversity is striking: fragrant magnolias, lotus blossoms, towering tree ferns, and rare cycads share space with native myrtles and olives.
Among the highlights is the Victoria amazonica, the giant water lily native to South America. This plant, with its enormous circular leaves and delicate night-blooming flowers, grows in a large heated pool inside a dedicated greenhouse known as the Victoria House. Other notable specimens include papyrus (Cyperus papyrus), once used by the ancient Egyptians for paper, and the Metrosideros excelsa, a New Zealand native with bright red brush-like flowers. Each corner of the garden offers surprising juxtapositions of color, texture, and scent.
The Upper and Lower Garden Structure
La Mortella is divided into two major zones: the Valle (Valley Garden) and the Collina (Hill Garden). The lower valley section lies in a natural ravine where humidity and shade allow for a tropical microclimate. Here, water features abound: koi ponds, small waterfalls, and fountains are set among tree ferns, bromeliads, and banana plants. The winding paths and shaded pergolas create a cooling, immersive experience even in midsummer.
The upper garden, accessed by a long stone stairway, sits high on the hillside with panoramic views of the Tyrrhenian Sea. This area features more drought-tolerant plants like succulents, agaves, and Mediterranean shrubs. Terracotta pots, dry-stone walls, and a formal symmetry echo traditional Italian garden design, but with a freer, more romantic layout. The separation between the two levels gives visitors a sense of moving through distinct climate zones within a single garden.
Architectural and Sculptural Highlights
La Mortella is not only a botanical wonder but also a space rich in architectural and sculptural elements. The Greek Theatre, completed in 2002, is perhaps the most striking feature. Built into the hillside, it seats around 400 people and blends classical design with local stone. It is used for weekly summer concerts and has become a cultural landmark in its own right.
Scattered throughout the garden are fountains, pools, and statues—some of mythological figures, others representing Ischian wildlife. One notable element is the Thai Pavilion, a small structure donated by the Thai government in 2003 in recognition of Susana Walton’s diplomatic outreach. There’s also a Meditation Garden, created in memory of William Walton, featuring a small water lily pool and busts of the composer. The garden includes several busts and inscriptions, all tastefully integrated without disrupting the natural flow.
Music and Cultural Legacy of William Walton
Walton’s Life and Major Works
Sir William Walton was born in Oldham, England, in 1902, and rose to prominence in the 1920s and 30s as a modern yet melodic composer. Though he studied at Oxford, Walton was largely self-taught. His early career was boosted by patronage from the Sitwell family, and he quickly gained acclaim for orchestral works that stood apart from the continental avant-garde. Among his most famous pieces are Belshazzar’s Feast (1931), Symphony No. 1 (1935), and his film scores for Laurence Olivier’s Henry V (1944) and Hamlet (1948).
Walton’s music was emotionally rich but never indulgent, modern but not alienating. Though critics debated whether he truly broke new ground, audiences consistently embraced his works. By the time he moved to Ischia, he was internationally recognized and ready to retreat from the pressure of England’s music scene. On Ischia, he composed Troilus and Cressida (1954) and continued to write until shortly before his death on March 8, 1983.
Music in the Garden: The Greek Theatre
The Greek Theatre at La Mortella was inaugurated in 2002, fulfilling Lady Walton’s dream of uniting her husband’s music with the garden. This open-air amphitheater, built in stone and surrounded by olive trees and flowering shrubs, provides an ideal acoustic environment. Each summer, the foundation hosts a concert series that features chamber music and opera selections.
The concerts are organized in collaboration with the Naples Conservatory of Music and other institutions, and focus on showcasing young talent. The theater holds around 400 people and has been praised for its intimate atmosphere and breathtaking views. Visitors can enjoy music while surrounded by flowering hibiscus, jasmine, and lavender. It is one of the few places in the world where world-class classical music and garden artistry coexist so seamlessly.
A Marriage of Music and Landscape
La Mortella is not merely a garden or a performance venue—it’s a complete aesthetic world born of two lives devoted to art. William Walton’s creative spirit is embedded not only in the music played there but in the atmosphere that surrounds every stone and flower. Lady Walton, through decades of tireless work, ensured that her husband’s legacy would continue in a form that appealed not only to the ear but also to the eye and soul.
She managed this with little outside help and remained active in the garden’s daily operations until her death in March 2010. Today, the Fondazione William Walton e La Mortella continues her work, running both the concerts and the horticultural programs. The foundation also supports music education, offering scholarships, masterclasses, and internships to gifted young musicians.
Major Works by William Walton Performed at La Mortella:
- Belshazzar’s Feast (1931)
- Troilus and Cressida (1954)
- Viola Concerto (1929)
- Sonata for Violin and Piano (1947–1949)
- Film music from Henry V (1944)
Visiting La Mortella Today
Seasonal Highlights and Practical Tips
La Mortella is open to visitors from April through October, with specific days designated for public access. Spring is particularly beautiful, as many of the garden’s tropical species come into bloom. Summer offers musical performances, while autumn highlights the changing foliage and late-season flowering plants like ginger lilies and hibiscus.
The garden is located in Forio d’Ischia, and access is possible by shuttle bus from the town center. Admission tickets are reasonably priced and proceeds support the foundation’s educational and conservation initiatives. Visitors should wear comfortable shoes, as the garden includes steep stairs and uneven paths. There’s a café on-site, as well as a small bookstore with titles on garden design and music history.
Educational and Environmental Outreach
The foundation operates a number of outreach programs, particularly focused on young musicians and students of botany. Summer workshops, internships, and school visits are part of the annual calendar. One of the key missions is the preservation of rare and endangered plant species, some of which are cultivated from seed in La Mortella’s greenhouses.
There are also collaborative efforts with international botanical institutions, including seed exchanges and conservation partnerships. Volunteers and garden trainees from around the world contribute to the maintenance and development of the space. Interpretive signs and multilingual guides ensure that visitors understand not just the beauty but also the science behind the plantings.
The Garden’s Place in Ischian Identity
On an island better known for spas, beaches, and volcanic mud baths, La Mortella offers a unique cultural counterpoint. It is widely considered Ischia’s finest artistic destination, drawing more than 25,000 visitors annually. Local authorities have recognized the garden as a vital part of the island’s identity, and it regularly features in national garden rankings published by Italian travel organizations.
Many return visitors remark on the serenity and sense of otherworldliness that La Mortella provides. It stands in sharp contrast to the beach resorts and tourist shops of nearby towns. Garden tour groups from across Europe now include La Mortella on their itineraries, placing it alongside better-known sites like Ninfa or the Boboli Gardens. Its blend of horticulture and high culture has ensured its place among Italy’s great private gardens now open to the public.
Key Takeaways
- La Mortella Gardens were created by Sir William and Lady Susana Walton in Forio d’Ischia beginning in 1956.
- The garden features over 800 species from both tropical and Mediterranean climates, designed with input from Russell Page.
- Sir William Walton was a major 20th-century English composer; his works are still performed in the on-site Greek Theatre.
- The garden opened to the public in 1991 and is now managed by a foundation supporting music and botanical education.
- La Mortella is now one of Italy’s top private gardens open to the public, offering concerts, rare plants, and stunning views.
Frequently Asked Questions
- When is the best time to visit La Mortella Gardens?
The gardens are at their peak in spring (April–June) when tropical species bloom, but they are open until October. - Who was Russell Page and what did he do at La Mortella?
Russell Page was a British landscape designer who created the master plan for La Mortella in the early 1960s. - Are there concerts at La Mortella?
Yes, the Greek Theatre hosts classical concerts in summer, organized by the Fondazione William Walton e La Mortella. - Is the garden suitable for children or people with limited mobility?
While beautiful, the steep paths and stairs may pose challenges; lower levels are more accessible than the upper garden. - What does “La Mortella” mean?
The name comes from the Italian word for myrtle (Myrtus communis), a native plant that grows naturally on the property.
